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bigclive
bigclive

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Noco no-go. It has boosted its last boost.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAvyRwMhd0w

I was kinda hoping this was going to be something simple and an easy repair, particularly the way Noco presents its products as being so robust.  But it would require quite a few bits to get it going again.

Noco no-go.  It has boosted its last boost.

Comments

I do have a dish of random screws just in case they fit something else later.

Big Clive

So, Clive, I've been watching your videos for some time now and one question has been bugging me with every viewing: Do you have giant coffee cans full of random screws sitting around or do you dispose of the screws when you dispose of the "Teardown Shrapnel"? Because...I'd probably keep them all.

As always, I love your commentary especially the tech speak "clicky relay things".

The NOCO is at the high price end of these things. Considered buying one but comment about the relay is worth noting I think. Great vid as always Clive. Cheers.

No wonder those things are so crap. That lipo pack is way to small to reliably handle the 200 amps you might need to start a car several times. They need the cells to be at least 4-8 times larger to make a regularly relaiable car starter. I built my own from repurposed cells and it is 48Ah at 16.8v. It will start a duramax pickup without an issue but I would still say the one I built is a bit small for this type of use if you want to rely on it.

Morning coffee and blown up stuff! ...much like my work day, actually REGARDLESS it's also fun to watch. Bummer about the battery, but it would probably blow up in a pleasing manner for you if it hasn't already! Cheers, Big Clive!

Michael Thompson

Great vid as always! :)

Paul N White

Yup, it's FUBAR'd

It was a bit component heavy to reverse engineer completely, but it breaks down into modules. Here's a list of the main components. The optocoupler-like devices are indeed Cosmo 1010 optocouplers. The battery balancing is dealt with by an 8254AA chip with 4435 MOSFETs. The LEDs are driven by an Xn2115tp device. The main processor is a Holtek HT46R06. The USB output is powered by an MP1584 buck regulator. The USB charging input is boosted up by an FP6293. There's a GZ423 (maybe a dual op amp?) and a 3.3V regulator.

Big Clive

Interesting to see one of these taken apart. We have a GB40 version at work (glad it is the "relay" model) and it has been quite reliable for starting vehicles. It has the extra forced voltage starting button for vehicles with stone dead cells which works a wonder. Perhaps this feature may have roasted the pack as this extra feature bypasses some of the safety features of the unit, however I thought this was to prevent damage to the cars battery/electrical system and not the booster itself. Surprised to see there is no super capacitor in there for a helpful buffer for the battery, but I can only imagine this would have been enlightening for the user😝. Still impresses me how pinch much these things can deliver.

Vaughn B.

I was waiting for the "one moment please" and you to come back with an extremely complicated reverse engineered circuit :-P

Adam Stewardson


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