SamSuka
bigclive
bigclive

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The LED panel build.

I'm toying with making a small batch of these.  Is the 6" by 4" (150mm by 100mm) frame size standard around the world?  In metric only countries is the frame actually about 100x153mm?  I want to make sure it fits in most of these styles of frame without needing sanded or filed down to size.

https://youtu.be/D0KMvwIiF5o

The reflow of standard solder was not a good result.  I've ordered some more paste in tub and syringe form for future testing.  The resistors could still be soldered individually with a fine tip iron.

The flickering panel is not something I'd want in a room in my home, but would be OK in busier environments and as part of a TV/film/ride set if diffused LEDs were used to tame it down.


The LED panel build.

Comments

What printer are you using these days for transparencies? You have mentioned a few in the past but I can’t seem to find it.

btSchmieds

I've ordered a small batch to test out.

Big Clive

Bit late to the party, but thank you for a thoroughly enjoyable video! Are you planning to sell any of the PCBs?

Sean D. Sollé

It's in the "War room" pre-show queue entertainment. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87gFEEsGux4

Big Clive

Do you have a link to the video you mentioned of the fast and furious ride set dressing?

David K

Before you write this technique off, I’ve had repeatable success with a very similar approach but with a different flux. I think your issue here is that you’re using a brush on flux intended for use with an iron (ie instantaneous localised high heat) and it appears to flash off before the board and components get up to temperature on the hotplate. Instead of a brush on flux I've used a gel flux in a syringe and a hot air tool. That stuff is really tacky (helps hold the components in place before applying heat). When it comes up to temperature it tends to lose a lot of its viscosity and becomes more of a runny liquid, but that keeps your pads and components away from air. That’d be worth a shot. I would also suggest maybe looking at the heat pad as a pre-heat to say 220C and then doing a quick whip around with the hot air pen to quickly bring each component up to reflow temperature which is probably the best of both worlds.

James French

I made a video where I opened a pack with a new set of Chinese snips and commented on the fact that I thought they might be a ripped off brand. Xuron subsequently sent me some of their American made snips.

Big Clive

Hey Clive which video is the one you talked about getting the real Xuron snips? I'm having trouble finding it.

That's how I've been doing it up to now, but I thought it would be interesting to experiment with a reflow plate.

Big Clive

Forgive me for speaking out of turn, but from what i can see it should be fine

Michael Thompson

Would it be possible to use the phonebattery-solarpanel-circuit as a powersupply for this piece of artwork?

Mike Weijmans

I found the best way to do prototype SMD soldering is simply to use a soldering iron to tin one pad of each component, add flux, then with the iron reflow the solder and slide the component into place. Once it has cooled, add more flux and solder the remaining pads. Quick, easy and reliable. With a bit of practice it works for ICs too.

Gary Bleads

It's really simple, the hardest bit is getting the half mirrored glass. You have a standard mirror at the back and the half mirror in front of it with the most reflective side facing in. Any light source between them will cast lots of bounced reflections that tail off into the distance. You can see the same effect if you use a hand mirror to reflect off a wall mounted one.

Big Clive

I use the same flux. Don't spill it! I can make great looking PCBs (toner transfer, ferric chloride) but they are hard to solder due to no solder mask.

Paul Hill

If the shortened link fails, see it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/fvwrmu/i_made_a_600_led_programmable_infinity_mirror/

I liked this project. It made me recall an article published within the May 2020 Hackspace magazine. I wondered if you could explain (or even modify this project) to demonstrate how an "infinity mirror" works? hsmag.cc/JJP08b I know you love your LED's clive, this one is a beauty!

I did get a bottle of immersion tin powder in the past. It was great, but one day all the tin just self precipitated out. Since viewing nurdrage videos on the subject I now know that I could have redissolved it. I do have thiourea containing metal polish here and can get some tin from lead free solder, so I may have a go at making my own.

Big Clive

It's interesting that he uses ordinary printer paper. I never had luck with the other toner techniques. They always had an issue with incomplete adhesion.

Big Clive

There are more options with traditional LEDs.

Big Clive

I may get a small test batch to try out.

Big Clive

It would be great to get them. Would love some of the coaster ones as well, but hey ho

Neil Tonks

I'm really taken with this idea, I'd absolutely buy a few boards. I'd like to experiment with maybe having the board the wrong way around to show the circuit with the LEDs stood off a way to allow them to be soldered. I also like the idea of cutting the tracks and adding wires to an arduino matrix, admittedly something that could be done with normal perf board but already having this at the correct size is great. Seems a good time to mention this too, I've watched Wesley Treat's method for making boards and he uses a laminator to transfer laser toner to the clad board and just goes straight to acid to remove the unwanted copper, finally removing the toner with acetone. It does seem very quick with minimal specialist tools. Thoughts? I'd recommend watching his video at least.

Matt Tester

Nice visual effect, Gives me some more ideas to work on. Thanks Clive!

Mike Hughes

I have come to love SMD projects, but let's face it I love building things. It's just something I tend to do.

Michael Thompson

Oh this looks wonderful! I want to do one with slow color changers! (Sorry I'm quite predictable that way...)

Michael Thompson

Good one Lostngone, made me laugh out loud. Great video Big Clive!

You need to try some tin immersion now Clive, to complete the total pcb fabrication, from raw materials to end product. All my chemicals come from a country very close to you, and I have some great formulas for the (liquid tin).

Mike Wynne

https://youtu.be/aqa2STJXvXE And question if you going to use surface mount resistors why not just use surface mount LEDs and forgo the drilling? Masking and painting that side might be a little difficult

Lostngone

i could use some as lights in my lego

God 420

Are you gone sell the boards?

The velleman brand still exist and the sell even 3D printers now. I have a few kits from them. Its a belgium company i believe.

That turned out really nice. And at a perfect time too - trying to relax to get to sleep. There's nothing better than Big Clives voice to chill you down.

John Carr

That's good. It sounds like a metric conversion of 6x4 inch.

Big Clive

I would be interested in a video exploring the different sizes and options available in surface mount LEDs. Something like this done in surface mount LEDs would be interesting, if that is even possible.

Mark Trombley

I checked a couple I had and they were both 103x153mm, Clive.

Nub

Standard frames here in the states are 8x11 and 4x6 (LxW). At least from what i saw about 10 or so years ago.

NightshadeLenar

Please do !


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