Full USB LED lamp build with optional 3D printed bit

You do get submersible UV tubes for aquariums. I'm not sure that's ideal for the fish.

Big Clive

So what if we got some PET or Polyimide plastic tubes which allow UVC to pass and made a submersible sterilizer using this method. I realize glass would block the UVC but I understand those (and some other plastics) have reasonably good transmission characteristics. Do you think that might be workable as a drinking water 'solution'?

The origin of "the pink"! Awesome! I always kind of wondered, but yeah exploding pink "Barbie-esque" anything does lend a certain panache to the also awesome exploration of the innards.

Michael Thompson

Once removed from the mandrel it might ease insertion of the string if you tried turning the test tube as if you were screwing it onto the spiral. As the tube rotates against the spiral, it tends to make the radius smaller and thus more easily goes in. This also works for removing hoses from fittings, though in reverse. Ditto the above suggestions about keeping the light string on a mandrel, inserting into the test tube, then removing the mandrel.

I love this project because everyone can play! I hope this gives some house - bound folks a cool project to build... and keep!

Michael Thompson

That happened pre-channel.

Big Clive

It's a quirk of this printer that it has those four screw positions where it attaches to that axis. Worse still that one of them is not used as the hole below it is used for another attachment underneath.

Big Clive

Is it normal that your printbed has four screws to print on. Normal you have a other sort of sheet on to of your printbed?

Oh yes - I've been searching the channel for exploding things but haven't found the origin of the pink explosion.

Mark Gray

Quick thought - would leaving the end of the LED coil straight and using it as a tail to help pull the coil through make things easier? Then just coil and shove the tail back down the tube to finish.

Mark Gray

A quick tidy up of the script makes it easier to see what's going on. $fn = 40; module tz(z) { translate([0, 0, z]) children(); } diameter=16; adaptor(diameter); //Test tube lamp adaptor module adaptor(dia) { difference() { union() { //cable entry chamfer tz(0) cylinder(h=1, d1=8, d2=10); //cable entry tz(1) cylinder(h=4, d=10); //taper section tz(5) cylinder(h=15, d1=10, d2=dia+2); //tube insert tz(20) cylinder(h=14, d=dia); //tube insert chamfer tz(34) cylinder(h=1, d1=dia, d2=dia-2); } //main inner cylindrical hole tz(20) cylinder(h=20, d=dia-4); //inner taper section tz(5) cylinder(h=15.1, d1=6, d2=dia-4); //cable hole tz(-1) cylinder(h=15, d=4); } }

Nice project. I guess I'd anneal the 3d print so it shrinks a bit before going into the glass tube (and not while in use). The rubber seal trick is neat!

Definitely be giving this one a try. Perhaps it was my TV in the bedroom but I didn't spot any difference in the video quality. I do however have to take you to task. When you say ok, because I think your voice has the same tone as mine, my phone thinks I'm speaking to it. It then tries to ring whoever was on my call list.

Neil Tonks

Yeah. Very frustrating.

Big Clive

I did consider springy tangs around the side of the insert. But a close fit and glue works well.

Big Clive

Instead of the O ring maybe something like a banana plug lantern? More script work.

Mike Page

wrap the LEDs around a pencil / biro. Once wrapped, hold a chopstick against the wrapped LEDs to keep them in place, still around the pencil/biro. Now, insert the pencil wrapped LEDs and support chopstick into the tube. Remove the chopstick, the tension will release on the coil and you can now extract the pencil

GL_1_Code1_1A

It's perfectly fine to see you fafing about a bit.

Charles Bruckner

Leaving shells off of connectors - 125a 3ph ceeform isn't too bad. Socapex is much worse!

Chris Plater

I had a quick play; take the cap off the pen, leave the LEDs on the pen, insert into the tube and wiggle the pen free. Voila!