Is this video OK?

I thought the video was ok. I feel better about my cheap meter.

Nani Isobel

I thought the video was pretty well done. I don't know how you could make it any simpler without just leaving out certain things. Leaving them in though, even if they aren't immediately understood by the most basic beginners may be a good idea. It gives them the information they need and also points them towards a few things to learn in the future. Incidentally, that yellow meter is the exact same one that was my first meter. It had different branding but otherwise was identical. I got it at Walmart many years ago in the automotive isle.

Sample-Text

I, as a hobbyist with intermediate knowledge of electronics, found the video still quite interesting to watch. So I think anyone like me or with a little bit of electronics knowledge would find the video useful and interesting, even if they didn't understand every word. I think, if you are wanting to pander to the broad audience, they probably want a review of a few cheap multimeters; they want to be told exactly which one to buy. I understand that your videos may be a little niche, but you have a very loyal following of hobbyists who love what you do and don't want you to change a thing! I am not sure what audience you are looking to capture exactly, but I just fear that you may not enjoy making broad, dumbed-down videos.

Andrew Mmmm

I'd say ditch the bit where you're talking about the insides of the meters if you're aiming this at newbies. That could go into another, more general interest video. For the newbies stick to how to use it, without dipping too far into how it works/how its made.

Jon Knight

Never designed a DMM. Once did the firmware for a two pole tester that worked in one pole, two pole and three pole mode (with touchpad). Was quite pleased with it, but never made it to market :( As for the video, it seemed OK. I never really worry about the details, just the basics: current is low impedance, everything else is high. When the battery's flashing, change it. Don't stick a £10 meter on the mains. My Dad - a legendary skinflint - had a £10 meter he used for battery voltage. It had a weird fault where the reading drifted due to spider (rotary switch) contact resistance. Eventually he got fed up making excuses for it and I bought him an Amprobe, which is basically a Fluke for 1/3 of the money. No analog signals pass through the switch.

Mike Page

I really should do a shorter version with just the basics.

Big Clive

From the perspective of a newbie – because I am an electronics newbie. I’m also perfectly aware, from my own experiences, of your situation - of knowing stuff inside and out for decades…and trying to explain it to rookies… Here are some humble observations I’ve penned down while watching this video. Because you’ve asked: My leading question while looking at this video: “Now I’ve bought my first multimeter – what to do with it”? First show what it does – measure the voltage of a battery, measure a resistor. Don’t show the insides first. I found this distracting. Add a BIG WARNING for NOT to use dinky meters with crappy wires to measure your 250V sockets or 20 Amps. Before diving into AC/DC stuff, show newbies first some simple things that work – how measure voltage (battery), measure current (battery -> resitor - > LED), how to measure continuity, how measure a diode. I think that’s why people buy their first DMM. I did. Good explanation of how to measure a resistor and where to keep your fingers to not mess up the measurement. Explain where to place the meter probes (in parallel, in series) to measure voltage, resistance and current. Good way of testing a diode 5.30 – show more! ~16:45 Go more in depth how to “measure the voltage across the resistor”. Add a quick recap if a resistor affects voltage or current or both, and how to use the MM in this instance to measure it. ~20:00+ Before going into details about whether instant or “scratchy” beeping is better (and mentioning Dave from the EEVBlog) show what continuity and diode testing actually does. This makes your preferences better to understand. ~20:14 What springs to mind: How to test various components: resistor, LED, diode, capacitor to so if they are OK. This stems from my own introduction to electronics. I’ve just wanted to fix things. Why does my hard disk recorder no longer work? Why does my sub-woofer make these hissing noises for a minute after I’ve turned it on? Yes – capacitors 😉 20:30 Important: How to check if a diode is damaged? I think you are glossing over this too quickly and they are often a culprit. In the same corner: How to measure a capacitor with a MM and tell if it may be kaput. Finally, show how a MM it is constructed, why big ceramic fuses are good, why some MM’s are save to use with mains power and many others are not. Again, that’s what I’ve wrote down while watching this video – because you’ve asked on Patron. I’m a newbie to electronics and I will look at things differently than folks working in the field for 5 or 30 years. Also, English is not my first language.

Mario2020

Funny enough I just got a second classic trash meter for free from Uni-t with my thermal camera. Again, unfused :-(

Peter Stevens

I liked the content but maybe it could be two videos, "how it works" and "why it works".

19day

You can share it now if you wish.

Big Clive

I think the video is perfect. When it releases I will be sending to my friend who is getting into electronics. Thanks Clive. You’re the best.

Technically speaking I do have a teaching career here on YouTube. Just not obvious classes and available free to anyone who is interested in learning.

Big Clive

Have you considered a teaching career? As a retired electronics tech, and broadcast engineer, I can't find fault with anything you said, and commend you. I also agree with Dave about ESR meters being crap. For some reason, their circuitry is "stolen" by the ESR circuits and fails to provide any real accuracy. As for a Fluke, I have used Fluke meters since about 1974, and their quality is slowly falling off, unfortunately. I prefer a Simpson 260-6XLP for "mains" work, and an old 267 for low voltage applications. To each his (or her) own. Thanks Clive

Chuck Kirchner

It's good, and has a lot of the info that a novice would need, so I think it's worth releasing. But if you're looking for the most newbie-friendly content, shorter, more tightly focused segments might reach a wider audience. As an example, the first segment - publish each as a separate video so you get the impressions and people who only watch short videos - might cover just how the meter measures voltage, and demonstrate measuring DC in the various ranges - and that's it. Current can be a separate segment, resistance/continuity/diode a third, safety factors and comparison between the meters you showed a final segment, or something like that.

Charles

I would have kept it simpler. No need to show the innards and describe resistor networks. Good to mention fuses and the issues with current testing. Definitely stay away from mains AC at this level. Start with 5v USB and 12v car electrics.

AlfaGuy

I really liked it - wish there'd been a guide like this back when I was in my first college Electrical Engineering class and was the bane of my lab instructor's existence. The lives of many fuses would have been spared. And it's a good point that there's no need for most people to go out and spend Fluke or equivalent money right away, if ever. I still use my cheap meters for a lot of things these days.

Absolutely... perfect

Jeremy Impson

You got that for a good price.

I like this video. I’ve used similar meters in the past and you hit all the key points and pitfalls. I’m currently using a 4 digit AN8009 that was $16 including the thermal probe. The only downside I’ve found so far is the need to push select/hold to get AC and continuity. To your disagreement with Dave, the continuity beep is latching and decisive but pleasantly quick too - not a bad happy medium IMHO, and like you I do not look at the screen when working on continuity.

Chris

At 13mins; I feel that the title and the content has diverged. Initial - cheap vs expensive. *then* it gets into the basics. Seems like there should be a quick intro vid for cheap vs expensive Then get into the basics?

I have used flukes for high voltage/high amps. But realistically, The really basics are not a bad thing. Easy to use; easy to burn, but doesn't hurt $$$ when they blow. The main issue I see is that the probe cables dont last long; and are really the main issue (if you cant get replacements).

Yes, I think its OK. But then I'm not in your target audience, as I have the first meter I bought, over 40 years ago, and it still works! [edit] I think you should explain the difference between precision and accuracy. At 15:53 you didn't get it quite right, as switching scales doesn't necessarily increase accuracy, but it does increase precision. It may increase accuracy too, but I believe more digits is more precision.

Stuart

Assistant in local electrical repair shop was quite open about the number of times she'd turn the dial whilst meter was still connected, thus blowing its internal fuse...

Andrew Donaldson

Yes it was Clive - You will always have new viewers, and this video is a great intro to the world of meters. At least you didn't have to explain the mirrored background and parallax on analogue style meters :-)

Henry Becker

I'm a programmer - just a hobbyist trying to learn electronics. I found the video clear and helpful (though much of it I already knew from watching your videos regularly). I would be interested in knowing HOW they calculate voltage internally, but I guess that's not important to know how to use the meter. Good stuff.

Todd Sharp

you said don't touch lol that's like waving a red flag at bull.

Good video, understandable for anyone who payed some attention when electricity was explained at school.

Karl Langeveld

I think it's a perfectly good video. If this is too technical for someone, I don't recommend giving them a DMM to play with.

Tobi

My first multimeter was an analogue type and met its demise when trying to measure the mains voltage set to 300mA instead of 300V. Quite spectacular but taught me to double check the range setting every time regardless of what I'm measuring.

Well Done Clive, Long time follower and viewer it's a great video for the subject, Mark has a good point though I will add

Seems good. I think the only significant debate would be over the order of the content - e.g. may be better to have safety-related content (avoid mains, don't change ranges while connected etc.) first so that anyone following along doesn't make those mistakes. I also agree with others that the 'how it works' bit may be better at the end for those who are interested.

Mark Gray

As someone who has zero idea about this topic: it was good, I understood it and think I actually learned something

Juraj

More than OK.. that was very informative for someone like me who had a very basic grasp but not a real solid understanding of the fundamentals.

"I wonder if that little potentiometer is actually for calibration or some other purpose like display contrast. I've never tried tweaking it." How to tell some one you've been kidnapped without telling them.

I'm going to make a guess that 'OL' means Outside Limit. Good video, yeah it is a bit complex but nothing more than an electronics enthusiast would encounter a few weeks into their journey of discovery.

electronbox

For me, whose electronics engineer father, taught me the basics of electronics at an early age, this video is pitched at the right level for me and I guess anyone else who has a basic grasp of electronics. Complete beginners to electronics may struggle a bit, however if watched in combination with your other videos introducing basic electronics components they would be able to benefit from it too. As a Computer Systems engineer who only works at low voltages and at board level, I only ever have these cheap meters, including a £10 clamp ammeter I bought from Amazon the other day. I figured that using the clamp to measure mains currents would be safe enough for my needs.

Dr Andy Hill

Frankly I've learned something from watching this video. I'd consider maybe doing two. One with the "tl;dr" and another for the full fat details

LibC

Personally mentioning Schottky might have confused some people. Resistors can have 5 bands so explaining how to read those would be good. On the whole very informative.

Nuts 'n' Proud

Yes, it's OK.

just_noXi

He did mention that in the video

just_noXi

Not at all awkward or a failure by any means. The explanation of how current and resistance are measured and diode and continuity testing are all done by measuring voltage was excellent. Not quite at the rank beginner level, but many of your viewers are probably at least a little more knowledgeable, and many of us are old (meaning aged) pros who have never lost interest in taking things apart to see how they work.

My first multimeter was even cheaper looking than those. Bought in a German supermarket on holiday when I was about 10. I remember getting upset as I couldn't read the instructions! You can imagine how useful the sheet of paper that came with it would have been. I use a Fluke T130 for poking around the mains as it only requires the usual amount of hands, and a fairly cheap Unitrend for everything else.

Simeon

Great.

James Baverstock

Hey BigC. Liked the video BUT you didn't once mention the internal battery. Maybe you didn't need to, but it seemed like a glaring omission.

Yet another "jewel in the crown" I think I could have taken a lot from this clip as a noob....

I don't think that the test leads will have noticeable impact on the calibration. For example, the current range is calibrated based on specific currents- so "large" wire resistance can be mitigated by increasing the compliance voltage of the calibrator's current source. Low quality test leads have resistance of 0.1 ohm (or even higher- such as Clive's old power supply leads- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McXkzYsules). They might skew "low"-level resistance measurments (in the order of few ohms).

Always a good video from you. I've had my cheapy meter for about 30 years, I got it from Maplins when Maplins was good, and way before they closed. It has had a few new batteries and a few new probes, but it has always been fine and rattles around in my toolbox.

Failed indeed in keeping it short. ;) Although it resulted in a very good video! I like the way you say the word 'averaging' trice.

Frank

I would agree Clive, the Cheap ones are great for Hobby use and very close testing on a precision voltage tester. but i would never use them to probe around a Main or sub panels or check phases. A meter is like is like a diamond buy one you buy it for life. Yes I do own a Fluke 87V but its going to last the next 30 years, with Cat 3 and Cat 4 ratings.

Jonathan Hughes

I know I am going to get beat up for this and I know in some cases the meters demoed are “free”. But… you can get relatively inexpensive fluke meters as well. A Fluke-101 DVM volts/resistance meter with continuity and diode testing is under $50USD and the Fluke 107 DMM is around $110.

Lostngone

Great video, Clive. In my opinion- it's clear and informative enough as a multimeter 101 video.

Great intro video, with tons of useful info. Only thing I'd have mentioned is not to use the continuity test or resistance on a live circuit, even a low DC one. Results get... interesting.

Raphaël

Also reminds me of jamming my first meter as a teenager across the mains in current mode. Melted both the probes :D

As a novice with a very cheap meter, this was a great quick tutorial. Took some of my worries and fears away. Just use it - if it stops, check the fuse - if it lets out the magical smoke vapor, spend another fiver and not worry about it.

Yep, good video! Simple to understand. Only thing I’d have liked to have seen extra was a price comparison between the meters and maybe to open the fluke to show why they’re >£400. I know you’ve shown inside it before though!

My ears aren't great but I couldn't hear the beeps from your meter. Otherwise this was a great multimeter 101.

Bill Kerr

Thinking back. Things I was always worried about were. Using my father’s expensive Simpson analog work meter with the mirror on the meter face was blowing it up or damaging the needle when connecting the leads backwards. Two things I would have covered were the negative and positive leads and how in most cases these days hooking them up backwards isn’t a big deal. Also I would have explained what auto range means in a meter and the benefits and downfalls of that. I like fluke but my thing is find a meter you can afford and that you know how to use and feel comfortable using. I have had to borrow some pretty Janky meters with flaky leads that I was really worried if I should even trust the readings. Thing was the people that did use those meters on a daily basis knew them and how to deal with their idiosyncrasies and didn’t have any issues with them.

Lostngone

Great vid Clive, super informative, and all the necessary warnings where they’re needed. Release it to the masses!!

Mike Wynne

Good clear and concise walkthrough of the multimeter. Maybe could have expanded more on the leads and probe points, especially the difference in quality of the actual wires and banana plugs used in the cheapo mm versus the Fluke. Actually, on that point.......does the wire used make a difference in the calibration of the meter? I have a few different meters, from real cheap to not quite as cheap but still not professional level and have found that in the really cheap ones, the "copper" wire used it very thin with surprisingly few strands.

John Carr

It's difficult to know how far back into basics to go. "Why Do You Need a Multimeter?" - test a car battery, here's how to do it. Check an LED, here's how to do it. Test a wire for continuity. here's how to do it. This is what people buying these cheap meters at HF need to know. You don't need a Fluke and you don't even need the fancier models at HF. (Harbor Freight recently has gotten out of the habit of giving these away for free with purchase.) IMHO the display is the first feature that would drive someone to graduate to a slightly more expensive multimeter. For transistor gain I'd rather use one of the Mega328 LCR component testers. Speaking of HF, I have gotten some of their 0.7 Amp Rotary Tools for nearly free and use them for PCB drilling.

Rob Clark

I think you did good job Clive. It is enough to get someone started.

Davin Desborough

The only correction I would make, is the Harbor Freight hasn't given away those cheap meters in a couple years. I have a box of about 20 left, that I give to anyone that needs one. Now I can give them your video link to go with it.

Philip Childs

I think it’s good, but maybe leave out the schematic where you explain that it always measures a voltage, or like mentioned above move it to the end.

That can be a bit of a tricky one to recommend as a meter can be sold used when it's deflective or damaged, and someone new to electronics likely won't be in a position to test it for function/accuracy.

I think you hit the spot, it explained what they do and how they do it. The main functions most people will use, and that its ok to get a cheap one to learn on. I reckon for beginners, its enough to jump in and go melt a meter, and then has enough meat they can come back and watch it a second time as they clear the air of the magic smoke.

Myrk

I think you did pretty good with your explanations. I have some familiarity with how to use these as I use them for testing the power rails on computer PSUs and found this to be very informative as I experiment in learning more about how electrical things work.

Eric Woodley

Another point might be that you can pick up used meters, especially if you really want a Fluke but don't want to spend mucho dinero

Peter Stevens

From my perspective as a CEI (certified electronics idiot) I thought it was good. You did seem to be speaking faster than normal but it was understandable and seemed complete.

Mark Trombley

Idea for a follow-up video: "Using a trash meter to diagnose and fix poundland tat", using a trashy meter and doing things like isolating a dead led, finding and replacing a dead resistor, etc. Giving examples of doing common/basic diagnosis would be very helpful for beginners.

Great little video. Only negative, could barely hear the continuity beeper.

The content of the video is great. The one suggestion I would have is to put the deep-dive into the internals and how they function at the end, as the audience for this type of video may not stick around until the practical section. One other thing to consider would be to look at adding chapters to the video for the different sections of the content so that if someone is looking for basics on a particular type of testing they can jump to it.

It's all good. It's simple, easy, and detailed. Lots of ranges to cover. Well done.

Scrufdog

When I write work procedures for work I always have someone who doesn't know the process read and follow them with no help. Maybe Juan and or Ralphy could do that.

Earl Plotner

It feels like you are going a bit fast? maybe it's just me. The content is good, though I would emphasize not using these trashy meters for mains, unless its one of those approved (UL listed, etc) trashy meters. My trash meter looks the same is has no fuses.

Peter Stevens

Looks really good

Spectrum DIY

Great job Clive, I remember screwing around with the analog ones seeing what could make the needle move more violently as a kid 😀 intelligence is just invested interest, I could wire a plug or a light in my house before watching you but my world opened up when I realized it wasn't so scary, your older videos will carry you, maybe make a YouTube Playlist for beginners? Your component guide is a go to for me. This has been my favorite meter so far. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07SHLS639/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_dl_KZ342ZK37ETQY3KDY2B8